I think installing an internal CPU cooler is a whole lot cheaper and cleaner as it specifically targets the CPU.  My H115i Pro cost me $110 on sale.

13 hours ago, Rob_Ainscough said:

Haha ... too funny, I assume you’re kidding?

Cheers, Rob

Haha, not kidding at all--done it for over 10y.  Peak load temps stay in the low 50's and that is hyperthreaded.   Choice B is to blow $1000 on a chiller you use with all of its complex tubing and leak potential, and when the heat from your box is pumped into your room you turn on the home a/c to keep comfortable.  In summer when temps go up to 100+ in Nor Cal it's far less expensive to use a local a/c unit to keep one smaller PC room comfortable than cool the whole house.  So I set my whole house central a/c at 78f, but the PC room stays nice n cool at 72 or so as 41F air blows on the case and into the HAF-X's large rear intake fan, and CPU/GPU/PSU/Mainboard all stay nice and cool.  Peak load core temps w/ HT enabled stay in the low 50's when the A/C is running.  In winter the need is much lower so often I will just run fan only.   I use Sony monitor phones so there is no noise--I can't even tell when the a/c unit is on.  I'll trade that in any day for the complex mess of tubes etc you have in your 'chiller' for $1000.  What do I need to do when I do my next build?  Simply pick up the old box and set down the new.

Jim--a Noctua DH-15 + and a/c unit will FAR outperform your AIO including on ALL components and there is zero leak risk, and it will be there for your next build.    It's not just cooling the CPU.  My current build is 6.5y/o, running at 4.4Ghz HT enabled, and runs for an average of 4h/day.  Clearly it's keeping the system in good shape.

Edited December 9, 20196 yr by Noel

I have a 12000BTU system for when the office get's warm. The PCs run 24 hours/day. 3960 with four HDDs RAID10 is over 7 years old. Internal liquid cooling.

1 hour ago, Noel said:

Jim--a Noctua DH-15 + and a/c unit will FAR outperform your AIO including on ALL components and there is zero leak risk, and it will be there for your next build.    It's not just cooling the CPU.  My current build is 6.5y/o, running at 4.4Ghz HT enabled, and runs for an average of 4h/day.  Clearly it's keeping the system in good shape.

I replaced a Noctua DH-14 with the Corsair H115i Pro.  I do know the Noctua is very good but it was difficult to remove/replace memory without replacing the Noctua.  The risk of any water cooled leaking is extremely slim and I think, as indicated above, caused by individuals messing around with their water-cooled setup.  But, anyway you can cool the system, is okay with me!  It does get hot inside!

22 minutes ago, Jim Young said:

I replaced a Noctua DH-14 with the Corsair H115i Pro.  I do know the Noctua is very good but it was difficult to remove/replace memory without replacing the Noctua.  The risk of any water cooled leaking is extremely slim and I think, as indicated above, caused by individuals messing around with their water-cooled setup.  But, anyway you can cool the system, is okay with me!  It does get hot inside!

It is a cloggy mofo to quote the late Robin Williams, but then again 6.5y later the original memory is still going strong so never had to mess with it.  But I am clearly a 'build and hold' user since incremental upgrades are truly so paltry.  Way back when an upgrade might literally double performance--now 6.5y later if I go 9900K + 3080Ti we're talking maybe 40% increase total processing power, as better than double on the GPU, about plus 35% on the CPU side.

My approach to this works best where there is a need to also cool the room.  In my house in the burned down town of Paradise CA during winter typically I ran the a/c unit as fan only which sent air from the outside (low speed setting) gently into the PC case and that was sufficient.   The heat from the PC is sufficient to keep the room warm along w/ our central heating.   

Edited December 9, 20196 yr by Noel

Instead of moving it into another room, why not put it in a custom chilled box force fed as in I think was Noel's example. Then only a pipe of moist hot air need be used rather than loads of long cables?

…Either way seems extreme, like putting the record player in another room. in the end it's too much work.

Agreed!

Maybe a USB network bridge and a tiny air-cooled PC as a 4 port hub into four powered 10port hubs?

With the record player instead of heat it is footfall or feedback into the system. So I have an amplifier with a high def Moving Coil head amp that uses an extreme A to D. So just play the album once when no one is around and volume right down, makes a file I can play anytime. I have a big LP collection from when I was a kid and found with a decent MC cartridge they sound pretty good.

2 hours ago, SteveW said:

Instead of moving it into another room, why not put it in a custom chilled box force fed as in I think was Noel's example. Then only a pipe of moist hot air need be used rather than loads of long cables?

There you go--that is precisely what that $219 8,000BTU unit on Amazon does--you simply route the discharge hot air hose out of the room to the outside or another appropriate space exactly as is done w/ a clothes dryer.  The other critical factor is when you cool the entire box from the inside out, and actually on the outside as well if you just let some of the chilled air hit the metal PC case, becomes a big heatsink.   Low ambient temp isolated from the user is your great big easy friend.  I love 'two-fers'--this approach also functions as a room cooler to as needed as well.  Still need the excellent CPU cooler but with either air or liquid you are going to be as good as you'll need to get good overclocks and preserve your equipment.  And bonus you do get some dehumidification, it never gets too cold to risk condensation, and air flow rate is slow enough not to drive up static electricity.  As I have said I'm really surprised more haven't figured this out as it's both simple and very effective.  My original thru-the-wall a/c unit is still going strong after 10y or so.

59 minutes ago, SteveW said:

I have a big LP collection from when I was a kid and found with a decent MC cartridge they sound pretty good.

Owning a long-forgotten Linn Sondek, I can equate with you on this. Glad I hung on to my LPs from the late 60s seeing what vinyl costs today!🤔

4 minutes ago, vc10man said:

Owning a long-forgotten Linn Sondek, I can equate with you on this. Glad I hung on to my LPs from the late 60s seeing what vinyl costs today!🤔

Awesome!

Need some help, Water Cooler Wizards, please!

New rig built, but on the screen it says CPU Fan Error but the NZXT Kraken X52 water block over the CPU is circling around in default blue. Does that not mean the water cooler is circulating? The two 140mm top radiator fans are spinning okay; the water block power cable is in; the USB cable is in.

Please advise if possible. Thanks.

1 hour ago, Rob_Ainscough said:

That's most likely normal, you need to go into the BIOS/EFI and set fan monitoring from NA to Ignore.  But to verify, what are your CPU temps?  (that should be in the BIOS under Monitor also).

Cheers, Rob.

Hi Rob. Thanks for your prompt response.

As I was not certain if and when anyone would see this, I managed to register at NZXT and then got a superb chap called Chris on their Web Chat and he said that some Asus motherboards, despite labelling AIO Pump on the header next to CPU_OPT and CPU_FAN headers, require an AIO Pump connector to go to CPU_FAN header.  He further said that the LEDs rotating c/w on the CPU water-block was not an indication of water circulating. I was puzzled. He said by listening to the pipes I can hear water circulating.

So, did precisely that after dismantle/ reassemble, and that boot-up BIOS Screen Error cleared and the temperature shown was 26C. No idea if that is okay as this my very first water-cooling exercise. Only wondering why the G.Skill RAM is only showing 2133MHz instead of 3600MHz?

 

Once more Rob, you may be across the 'Pond', but are a great help from afar to a fellow-Brit. Appreciated.

Your 26C and 'feel-test ' makes me a lot happier than I was mid-afternoon with that CPU Fan Error! BIOS start-up screen.

The RAM is the G.Skill Trident Z Series, and as my existing Corsair Vengeance in a 6-year old rig did have XMP, I am hoping this one does too.

Not clue (a) what that RGB lights are, or (b) how to turn them on. Is that the LED RGB on the Kraken or the Asus mobo ?