12 hours ago, Rob_Ainscough said:

But just so you know, I've accidentally ran my chiller so cold that it produced condensation on the blocks

Even with a custom loop, I'm puzzled as to how this can happen as I can't understand how the CPU temperature could ever get below the ambient temperature of the room.

On 11/19/2019 at 9:48 AM, Avidean said:

 

Edited December 7, 20196 yr by Noel
Duplicate

On 11/19/2019 at 9:48 AM, Avidean said:

I live in a more temperate climate now but I have in the past experimented with feeding the output from an air conditioner into the case with great results i.e. completing 3dMark06 at 5.5ghz. In fact I'm still number 49 on the 3DMark06 hall of fame https://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/18095473

When I originally posted that It was in the 30's 😁 So I am a proponent of air cooling

I've been doing the A/C into the case now for over 10y--I'm amazed you hardly hear of this simple approach to total cooling in that everything in the box gets cooled w/o the crazy tubing and radiators and potential for leaks w/ complex custom loops.  You don't need to do a thing when you change PCs, upgrade hardware you just park it next to the A/C and away you go and bonus w/ all that wattage from your O/C processor/GPU you get to keep the room cool.  Biggest no-brainer in the history of overclocking. The argument which often comes, "but I need a quiet system...".  For flight simming?  Give me a break just go flying in a real plane sometime and see how nice n quiet it is.   Noise cancellation or straight monitor phones screen out all the noise you need to anyway and if you're not flying and you're recording digital audio you just don't turn on the A/C.

On 11/19/2019 at 9:48 AM, Avidean said:

I live in a more temperate climate now but I have in the past experimented with feeding the output from an air conditioner into the case with great results i.e. completing 3dMark06 at 5.5ghz. In fact I'm still number 49 on the 3DMark06 hall of fame https://www.3dmark.com/3dm06/18095473

When I originally posted that It was in the 30's 😁 So I am a proponent of air cooling

I've been doing the A/C into the case now for over 10y--I'm amazed you hardly hear of this simple approach to total cooling in that everything in the box gets cooled w/o the crazy tubing and radiators and potential for leaks w/ complex custom loops.  You don't need to do a thing when you change PCs, upgrade hardware you just park it next to the A/C and away you go and bonus w/ all that wattage from your O/C processor/GPU you get to keep the room cool.  Biggest no-brainer in the history of overclocking. The argument which often comes, "but I need a quiet system...".  For flight simming?  Give me a break just go flying in a real plane sometime and see how nice n quiet it is.   Noise cancellation or straight monitor phones screen out all the noise you need to anyway and if you're not flying and you're recording digital audio you just don't turn on the A/C.

 

On 11/18/2019 at 8:03 PM, rjfry said:

Check out the PC used to test it.

OMG, 96 degrees on the 2nd core at 5.2Ghz?  For that case and cooling system tell me that is Fahrenheit 

Edited December 7, 20196 yr by Noel

Small question for your Wizards of Watercooling. Just assembling my NZXT Kraken X52..Before I put the CPU into the Asus motherboard socket, do I apply a heatsink paste to the CPU to mate with the underside of the water pump, as the NZXT instructions leaflet is a tad sparse in the installation write-up?

Thanks for potential answers.

49 minutes ago, vc10man said:

Small question for your Wizards of Watercooling. Just assembling my NZXT Kraken X52..Before I put the CPU into the Asus motherboard socket, do I apply a heatsink paste to the CPU to mate with the underside of the water pump, as the NZXT instructions leaflet is a tad sparse in the installation write-up?

Thanks for potential answers.

Nooooooooo!  You want positive control of that CPU when seating it into the motherboard socket--putting thermal paste on it before getting it into the socket is a really bad idea, an easy way to have it slip out of your fingers into the socket and/or potentially get a bunch of that sticky stuff into the socket where those tiny fragile pins are.

Seat the CPU and get it clamped down, and *then* only when you're ready to fit the block to the CPU, apply the thermal compound.  When I installed the H100i into my 7700K machine, I put a sock around the block, mounted the radiator with the block still loose, then mounted the block to the CPU last.

 

2 hours ago, vortex681 said:

Even with a custom loop, I'm puzzled as to how this can happen as I can't understand how the CPU temperature could ever get below the ambient temperature of the room.

The CPU won't get that cool, but the backside of the water block sure can, as well as the tubing and fittings.  The water doesn't warm that much...maybe a couple deg C on a single  pass through the block, so below-ambient temps can exist everywhere but right at the CPU-block interface.

1 hour ago, w6kd said:

Nooooooooo!  You want positive control of that CPU when seating it into the motherboard socket--putting thermal paste on it before getting it into the socket is a really bad idea, an easy way to have it slip out of your fingers into the socket and/or potentially get a bunch of that sticky stuff into the socket where those tiny fragile pins are.

Seat the CPU and get it clamped down, and *then* only when you're ready to fit the block to the CPU, apply the thermal compound.  When I installed the H100i into my 7700K machine, I put a sock around the block, mounted the radiator with the block still loose, then mounted the block to the CPU last.

 

Bob, I may inadvertently expressed my poser. I was aware that I had to first make sure the CPU was fitted to the Socket without any paste, etc, onto the motherboard, and then firmly clamped. What I was NOT fully 100% certain of, as this is the very 1st AIO I have ever fitted to a CPU, whether there was a requisite need for a CPU thermal paste to be applied before mating it with the water-block, as the NZXT foldaway instructions in several languages did not make that clear. Hence, I thought I'd better ask first.

I will certainly follow your 2nd paragraph. Thanks for that

Seems me that noticing the paucity of that NZXT Kraken X52 Installation Guide that i was not the only one, as same paucity was described in a YouTube video showing an earlier NZXT Kraken AIO !!

On 12/6/2019 at 12:56 PM, Rob_Ainscough said:

36GB RAM?

Cheers, Rob.

yes...I'm odd! 🙂   No, it's 32GB.  

Might be overkill for P3D.  Told it might be necessary for X-plane.  Don't know what MS2020 holds.  In any event, finding MB QVL qualified RAM becomes harder the older the MB gets.  $200 now saves headaches later. 

 

6 hours ago, w6kd said:

The CPU won't get that cool, but the backside of the water block sure can, as well as the tubing and fittings.  The water doesn't warm that much...maybe a couple deg C on a single  pass through the block, so below-ambient temps can exist everywhere but right at the CPU-block interface.

If the cooling system is just a radiator, water and a pump (like a conventional custom loop or an AIO), then you can't cool the fluid below the ambient temperature of the radiator (which is only as cold as the air going through it). You’d need to use either an evaporative cooler, a phase-change/compressor system or a Peltier device to reduce the temperature below ambient. Have a look here under "Going Below Ambient”: http://www.procooling.com/index.php?func=articles&disp=32&pg=1

Edited December 8, 20196 yr by vortex681

9 minutes ago, vortex681 said:

If the cooling system is just a radiator, water and a pump (like a conventional custom loop or an AIO), then you can't cool the fluid below the ambient temperature of the radiator (which is only as cold as the air going through it). You’d need to use either an evaporative cooler, a phase-change/compressor system or a Peltier device to reduce the temperature below ambient. Have a look here under "Going Below Ambient”: http://www.procooling.com/index.php?func=articles&disp=32&pg=1

Yup...and Rob's Koolance "chiller" is exactly that...a phase-change refrigerant system that cools the primary loop coolant to temps below ambient.

OMG: $1000   https://koolance.com/450W-chiller-subassembly-vlx-450    What an inelegant solution hard to fathom what it takes to make that thing chill everything in your PC.  The assembly time alone is only for the seriously addicted.

Noctua DH-15 + thru-the-wall 8K BTU A/C unit:  $350 total, cools everything inside your case including the room as desired, with zero leaks, and will be waiting there ready to go for your next builds with no mods needed.   

 

9 hours ago, Noel said:

OMG: $1000   https://koolance.com/450W-chiller-subassembly-vlx-450    What an inelegant solution hard to fathom what it takes to make that thing chill everything in your PC.  The assembly time alone is only for the seriously addicted.

Noctua DH-15 + thru-the-wall 8K BTU A/C unit:  $350 total, cools everything inside your case including the room as desired, with zero leaks, and will be waiting there ready to go for your next builds with no mods needed.   

 

this is an old pic of my former FSX PC I7 3770k and Galax 680 , run it 1.5year phasechange -32c

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8p9jg5rawj49t45/Dator1.gif?dl=0

Here you go:  https://www.amazon.com/Shinco-SPF2-08C-Conditioner-Dehumidifier-Functions/dp/B07D8TWJ2T/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=stand+alone+a%2Fc+unit&qid=1575847310&sr=8-1

Cools the entire box and all its contents by taking ambient down to 40F or so directly into the case or large intake fans, dB rating less than 55dB, somewhere between a refrigerator and an electric toothbrush per Audicus.com.  Typical 737 flight deck:  ~75+dB.  The only installation challenge is to run its discharge hose outside or into your basement, or another room that can handle a bit more heat.

Edited December 8, 20196 yr by Noel