11 hours ago, skysurfer said:

OK. Sorry for the silly question. Do I need to updated the BIOS version in BIOS or BIOS version in Windows? ASUS offers two different updates.  

 

Theoretically it's safer to update the BIOS from a USB. However... the last 5 times I have updated the BIOS I have done so in the BIOS, using the "Internet" option. This is with Asus boards. I have had no issues whatsoever with this method. 

 

It would help if you told us which board you have and which BIOS version. 

Edited November 9, 20187 yr by martin-w

I though MB is listed under my signature. So it is ASUS Maximus VIII Hero. 

I am trying to clarify what w6kd said regarding to push the Rest/Jumper button. I am not sure what button do I need to push. Looks like I have couple.  

16. Clear CMOS button
17. Reset button. 

I also found a Jumper:

So do I need to push one of those Reset/Jumper buttons and after resetting remove the battery? I am a bit confused about correct order. 

It's the clear CMOS button. It's done with power off to board, and that means switched off at wall or via the switch on the rear of the PSU. And pressed for 5 seconds.

Best done when the board is cold, so all capacitors discharged, pressing the start button on your chassis after switching off at wall helps to discharge capacitors.

Some Asus boards require longer than 5 seconds. But read your manual. The manual should always be your reference. Page 1-23. 

https://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-HERO/HelpDesk_Manual/

 

It's also possible to short the "CLRTC" jumper but not required if you have a CMOS button. 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by martin-w

I pushed the clear CMOS button as suggested above and now my PC won’t power up. It stock at back screen offerin press Enter or F1 button for recovery but it doesn’t react pushing either of these buttons. 

Unplug your USB keyboard, wait a few seconds and plug back in. 

Then press key.

I have wifi keyboard 

8 minutes ago, skysurfer said:

I have wifi keyboard 

 

I suggest you find a wired keyboard to try. 🙂 WiFi keyboard usually work as they don't require drivers, but I suspect that the fact that its WiFi may be the trouble. 

 

 

Edited November 14, 20187 yr by martin-w

Ok   

Thanks for the tips everyone. Wired keyboard made a difference. I was about to pill video card to access the battery. I have a feeling my original issue was wifi keyboard. Now I can change all parameters. Will report back with progress on OC if I don’t burn my PC 🙂 

Quick update.

I am trying to run a stress test using ROG realbench. It says I need to select my available memory and I selected 16GB RAM because my PC has 16GB RAM. But when I begine a test I see the message in RealBench saying not enough memory and I need either to install more memory. I am able to start the test with 8GB. Why it wont allow me to use 16GB?

During the test do I have to run the stress test and leave the PC alone or I need to use it like use P3D PC with the strees test running and see of the system could handle it?  

Thanks 

 

Edited November 14, 20187 yr by skysurfer

Quote

But when I begine a test I see the message in RealBench saying not enough memory

 

Yep, RealBench does that to me too. Well known issue. 

If you change your page file it will fix the issue.

Although I find even running at 8 GB RAM (so no error) it's still an effective stress test. 

 

Quote

During the test do I have to run the stress test and leave the PC alone or I need to use it like use P3D PC with the strees test running and see of the system could handle it?  

 

No... a stress test should be run on its own with nothing else running. However... you can run a temperature monitoring app, like CoreTemp or RealTemp if you wish. 

So far I was anle to complete 30min up to 1hr tests:

4.6 GHz, 1.34V Average temps 70-75, max spikt 80C in air

4.7 GHz 1.35V  average temps 73-78, spikes 83C on air  

Based on research it is possible to oush up to 4.8 but I may need to switch to water cooler. 

All settings based on video above  

I didn’t quite understand if I have to to change DRAM. I didn’t understand what value I need to set. So far I have 1.594v Auto

Thanks for help. 

So this is with your 6700K?

 

Quote

 

4.6 GHz, 1.34V Average temps 70-75, max spikt 80C in air

4.7 GHz 1.35V  average temps 73-78, spikes 83C on air  

 

 

4.6 to 4.8 GHz is the range for a 6700K. 4.7 Is fine. Not all will do 4.8 GHz. Pushing it higher has little value as the frame rate increase will be barely measureless. Overclocking is generally linear in a well balanced system, if you increase to 4.7 from 4.6 GHz it equates to less than one frame per second at 30 frames per second. Little point.

 

Quote

Based on research it is possible to oush up to 4.8 but I may need to switch to water cooler. 

 

Some chips at the upper end of the silicon lottery can do 4.8 GHz. Again though... no point in pushing a mere 100 MHz. It will be barely measurable in terms of frame rate. Delidding will enable you to nudge it up and lower temps. Again though, consider what that will mean in terms of performance and if it's worth it. 

 

Quote

I didn’t quite understand if I have to to change DRAM. I didn’t understand what value I need to set. So far I have 1.594v Auto

 

Set the XMP profile. That will be the frequency and timings the RAM manufacturer guarantee  your modules will run at. That voltage is high! Should be 1.35. Again, set the XMP profile. Run the stress test again after you have set the XMP profile to make sure you are still stable.

 

Why don't you check out an overclocking guide for your CPU...

 

 

 

Edited November 16, 20187 yr by martin-w

I was based on that tutorial posted above on YouTube. I will take a look at this guide as well.

As for DRAM I changed to XMP and this is what I have (I did not manually changed any values):

I have reverted back to 4.6 an 1.34v, seems more stable than 4.7

I have GSkill Ripjaw V 3200 MHz, and the voltage I see in my BIOS is... 1.344, and the voltage I have, in yellow, is 1.350. 

It's the voltage in yellow that's applied, so you are good to go. You can check you have 1.350 with CPUz or HW Monitor or any app like that. 

May be something to do with your immature BIOS why the non XMP voltage was higher. 1.5 volts is the max safe voltage for DDR4. 

Edited November 17, 20187 yr by martin-w