I’ll attempt to provide steps for those who my wish to perform this fix on their yoke. PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMP THIS REPAIR UNLESS YOU HAVE EXPERIENCE WORKING ON SUCH THINGS. I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR DAMAGE TO YOUR YOKE.

I apologize for there not being more photos, but I did not have my phone With me in the shop.

First things first. Unplug your yoke’s USB cable.

Next, remove the rj-45 cable from the base unit.

Turn yoke base over on its top and remove the 9 Philips head screws (4 on each edge).

Turn yoke back over and remove the top of case

The front 2 screws may not have fallen out so if needed poke them out or they may interfere when removing the front switch plate.

Remove the four screws holding the LED panel and then move the LED panel out of the way.

Being careful not to damage the wires or connectors, disconnect the connector going to the switch array on one side and the ignition switch on the other side.

Now we get to the scary part. The switch panel can be moved away from the yoke body and slid up the yoke shaft without further disassembly. If you are uncomfortable with this step stop now.

The bottom of the front panel has a groove that fits onto the bottom plate of the case. I was able to tip the top of the front panel away from the case. It is a bit of a tight fit but going slow and being careful, I was able to pull the panel up the yoke shaft and away from the case.

This first photo shows the location of the female rj-45 connector circuit board. Remove the 2 screws holding the board.  Then trace back the cable from the board to the main board and carefully unplug the cable connector from the main board. Now you can slide the cable toward the front of the case to provide slack for the next step.

Board

After slackening the cable, you can wiggle the connector and board out of the case being careful not to damage the cable and now turn the board over.

The next photo shows the bottom of the ethernet board after the repair. Before the repair most of the solder joints were shallow and cracked all the way around.  After I wetted the joints with lead solder, I sucked them clean the applied a heavier than normal amount of lead solder to strengthen the connections. Only the 8 pins of the rj-45 plug should need servicing.

Now, just reverse the steps and reassemble your repaired yoke

Here is a photo of the tip I used in my Hakko soldering iron. The solder connections were very small.

My Honeycomb Alpha doesn't respond at all with the PMDG 737. it works fine with any other airplane. But on the 737, nothing at all. I tried pitch and roll, trim switches, nothing works. I switched plane to a Cessna 172, everything magically works fine. I don't understand what could be wrong.

Any ideas?

Any ideas?

Jack Maxcy

I contacted support, but they haven’t replied yet. I wonder if anyone got similar problem. Any advice is appreciated.

P.S. I am not in the US and I had been waiting for 5 weeks until I got my Alpha XPC from China. So, I can’t return the controller.

Windows 10's control panel shows full range function, with no snapping positions.  MSFS2020 sensitivity page also shows no problem.

How can I fix this?

HoneyComb Alpha - Forward and Backward Range Problem

Bravo throttle quadrant connects fine.

Tried cutting off a bit of the rubber on the USB C end of the cable in case it was not going in far enough.  Still does not work

Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks,

Ljasmann

The 'battery' button has stopped working on my Honeycomb Alpha yoke. It's definitely the switch that is physically broken and the fault is not software related in any way. Before I get out my screwdriver and soldering iron (last used about 40 years' ago) , is it quite easy to remove and fix this switch?

Now when I try to fly, the yoke and pedals are very sluggish and do not go through the entire range of motion.  Probably only about 30 degrees or so.  I cannot steer the aircraft with rudder tiller.  I cannot rotate for takeoff.

Any Ideas?

Jack

I am asking if any of you own this new Yoke from Honeycomb and if the device is worth a $100 more than just the Alpha.

Also what is the feel, quality?? I need to replace my old Alpha and it is either the XPC or the TM Boeing edition Yoke.

I fly mostly GA Aircraft but not excluding Jets.

Thanks.

I have owned the Alpha Yoke for about 3 years now and is of course out of Warranty. I have had the same problem with the connector cable between

the yoke and the Base as many others have.  Now just recently I noticed that the Yoke is wobbly on the shaft not a lot but noticeably. Has anyone else have this?

I am certainly not rough with my Yoke, a bit of hand flying at TO and landing.

I wonder if anything can be done to fix this problem.

Thanks 

Does this indicate that there is an issue with the Bravo or that some planes are either not designed to respond to the trim control (seems unlikely) or there is something wrong with those planes?

Jack

I am new to Flight Simulation and this group.

Just installed X-Plane 12 on a Dell XPS 8950 with Nvidia GeForce RTX 36 Ti graphics card. Am using the Honeycomb flight controls with the Bravo throttle quadrant and Thrustmaster rudder pedals. Only have one monitor hooked up for now until I get the basics down. The Dell XPS 8950 is currently dedicated to this X-Plane 12.

My problem: Am getting no connection or input from the yolk buttons on the Honeycomb Alpha Flight Controls. Rudder pedals work ok (need fine tuning) and the throttle quadrant is doing its job so far. However, the hat switch on the Alpha Flight Controls for changing the view does not do anything and the other yolk buttons (trim, flaps, etc.) appear completely dead. The avionic, generator, battery, lights, ignition, and pitch and roll work correctly. Just nothing on the yolk handles.The settings for the yolk appear to be assigned correctly but I get no action.

The flap switch and the trim wheel on the Throttle Quadrant work appropriately. 

Have only flown the C-172 and Stinson L-5 on this system while beginning to learn it. 

Is there something obvious I am missing?

Frank

Now, I have a Honeywell Alpha Flight Yoke and switch panel with a problem.  The LED switch (the one you use to calibrate it) is broken.  After waiting on Honeywell to answer me, I finally took the top off, thus destroying the warrenty, and found the switch is a cheap push button affair, and it is broken.  Does anyone on here know exactly what kind of switch it is?  It appears to be a 4 pin on/off micro-switch that returns to off, but It is so broken I can.t even read with my meter. Also, I found a small circular (about 1/8 inch) razor thin, metal looking disk in the bottom of the chassis.  I assume it fell out of the switch.

I can find plenty of micro-switches, but I don't want to get the wrong one and fry something else.  You know, all of us Electronics Techs have learned you can find the problem by finding where the smoke comes out!

Anyhow, if anyone knows for sure, please set me know.

thanks, Gary

My son gave me a present of a very good PC and Monitor to use for FS2020 Deluxe package for my 70th birthday.  I purchased the Honeycomb Yoke and Quadrant Controller but despite my best efforts I am unable to get them calibrated and I have not been very successful trying to learn from YouTube videos.  I am disappointed with the almost total absence of manuals availability.  Does anyone know if such manuals exist or where I might look for more structured help.  I would love to calibrate them for the recently available DC3 which was still around when I got involved in commercial aviation.

Thank you

Thanks

Dave.Gi  

If you have the HC Alpha Yoke have you had any troubles with this port?  Troubles with anything else?  If you had troubles were you able to get support from Honeycomb?  Their lack of CS is legendary it would appear.

Thanks in advance for your insights.

Thanks!

I've been struggling with setting up views with my Honeycomb Alpha yoke in msfs2020. I suppose what i want is rather easy to accomplish but i just can't get i right somehow.

All i want to achieve is the following 3 things:

1. Switch from the cockpit view to the outside view with a designated button, and back from outside view to cockpit view with the same button.

2. Freely pan around the cockpit with the hat switch on the Alpha yoke (=Freelook?)

3. Freely pan around the outside with the hat switch on the Alpha yoke. (=Freelook?)

I hope someone can help me out with this in some simple but exact steps.

This section is for the Generation One Alpha flight controls. While we will strive to answer your questions in this forum, official support is done via the support ticket system on the Honeycomb website.

https://prnt.sc/KcZXtPm7DIyv